The Refinery

Sleepy Hollow (7A+)

Grade
7A+
Gym
The Refinery
Set by
Seany
Wall
The Refinery
Posted
Sends
1
Rating
4.0 / 5 (1 rating)

Comments

Seany

Right foot on yellow is too passive. Try to “over-engage” it and see how that helps. Also black hold replaced with neon orange cuz it’s not flat

Seany

Overengaging helped but still couldn’t keep the engagement. Gonna try on foothold next to it to see if I can keep it then. The ankle position feels weird cuz I’m dead on so maybe I need to lean more to the left to get a better purchase on the angled foothold

Seany

It was the left lean! Pushing further left gives me a better position on the foohold

Seany

Glute engagement needed to get to orange hold and to move off of it

Seany

4 attempts. More hardstyle for first move and need to stop at yellow crimp for breath and set up before hitting orange crimp. Make sure to engage R hamstring on start hold to generate tension

Seany

4 more attempts. Better to latch onto orange with 3 and then add pinky and full crimp if needed but main thing is that middle R is over bolt hole and core up